Friday, December 08, 2017

Culloden

Culloden - the battle that changed the Highlands - forever.

On the 16th April 1746 the Highlands changed forever, not quite so much for the lost battle, but the aftermath and genocide of the clans, the outlawing of the plaid, weapons and anything that marked the highlander’s lives.  It was systematically taken away in order to break the spirit of the Highlanders and Jacobites so that there would never be another rising.  This was not the first rising, but the English made sure it was the last.  (Remember that bit about not always being proud of what the English did - yeah - the aftermath of Culloden is possibly the most agregious of their acts).

It was perishingly cold - the wind hurt.  I did some souvenir shopping in town before going out to the battlefield - had a successful trip. And picked up a beanie at Primark (thank goodness)!

The wind today was phenomenal (not 80mph as foretold - but Inverness is sheltered - the west coast was pretty much shut down).  Now, as you know, I am not an insubstantial being - but even I was almost taken off my feet and definitely stopped in my tracks a few times - such was the might of the wind.  I thought it had blown my hair straight it was so fierce!

Naturally the mild on and off rain we’d had all morning decided to kick in full force on the bus trip to the battlefield!  Just getting off the bus and walking to the visitor centre was cold enough to take your breath away.

I decided on the tour starting in 40 minutes, so I could grab a bite to eat and look in the gift shop.  I was able to leave my bag of goodies with the lovely gentleman at the desk while I went on the tour.

The tour inside was really interesting.  An example of the pettiness of the English was all the broadswords they picked up after the battle.  The removed the sharp tips, and the handles, and made a sort of picket fence out of them - and put it right up the centre of the front garden of the Scottish embassador’s front garden in London.  Who even thinks of such petty crap, honestly!

There was only myself and one other young lady (an American historian, who’d been studying in London for 18 months) on the tour and despite what the guide thought - we were braving the conditions and going out onto the battlefield.

It worked out really well that we both went as the first 100m was the worst and I may have turned back.  The temperature had dropped a little and it was either raining, sleeting or snowing for most of the walk.  But walk it we did.  We didn’t do the full length - but we made it to the memorial cairn.  I sent some Reiki love backwards through time.  No clue if it would do a damn thing - but it felt like the right thing to do.

By the time the bus got back to Inverness it was about 4pm and pitch black.  And I just wanted to thaw out!

Tomorrow - it’s back to Germany!







No comments: